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History
The fossils that give the
monument its name were discovered in 1909 by Earl Douglass. He was a
paleontologist (a scientist who studies prehistoric life) who worked for
the Carnegie Museum of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Douglass knew that some
of the rocks in northeastern Utah were the same kind that had produced
dinosaur skeletons elsewhere, so he went there hoping to find more bones
for the museum. In fact, he found thousands of them, and spent many
years digging them up and shipping them to Pittsburgh, where many
skeletons are now on display. President Woodrow Wilson heard about the
great dinosaur quarry that Douglass had started, and proclaimed the site
as Dinosaur National Monument in 1915. Years later, the National Park
Service began to develop the quarry as it is today. The rock layer
containing the fossil bones forms one wall of the Quarry Visitor Center.
On this wall, paleontologists have carefully chiped away the rock to
uncover the bones and leave them in place. More than 1500 fossil bones
can now be seen in this unusual exhibit.
Why are there so many bones
in one place? The rock around them is made up of sand and gravel, just
like the sand and gravel you might see along a large river. Such a river
flowed through this area 150 million of years ago, and many dinosaurs
lived near it. Now and then some of them died near the river. During
rainy seasons, the river overflowed its banks--just as many rivers do
now--and picked up some of the dead dinosaurs lying nearby. A few of
those bodies were whole, but many had probably decayed or been eaten by
other animals, so that just the bones were left. The bones and bodies
were carried by the river and deposited in the main channel. The current
buried them with sand and gravel. The place that is now the Quarry was
at one time a river channel.
As ages passed, that river
vanished, but other rivers and seas came and went, leaving layer after
layer of sand and mud that slowly solidified into rock. Even the buried
bones became as hard as rock, as water seeping through the ground filled
them in with dissolved minerals. Later still, strong vise-like forces
began squeezing the Earth's crust in this area, bending and tilting the
rock layers--just as the pages of a paperback book will bend if you push
on it from opposite sides. But the more that the rocks were pushed
upward, the more they were worn down by rain, snow, frost, and wind-
-layer after layer. Finally, some of the long-buried dinosaur bones
began to show up near the top of a steep hill, and Earl Douglass saw
them.
Facilities
and Services
The Dinosaur Quarry
is 7 miles north of Jensen, Utah, and encloses 1,500 dinosaur bones.
There are exhibits that tell the story about the bones. You can watch
technicians working on fossils in the paleontology laboratory through
the laboratory window. There is a wonderful bookstore that specializes
in dinosaur books and natural history books. It is open daily; 8:00 a.m.
to 4:30 p.m. with extended hours during the summer. Due to limited
parking at the Quarry a shuttle bus carries visitors from a lower
parking lot to the Quarry from Memorial Day through Labor Day. During
summer months there is an entrance fee.
Headquarters
Visitor Center is on US Highway 40, 2 miles
east of Dinosaur, Colorado. Exhibits and a 10-minute orientation program
provide information about the monument's scenic canyon country. There is
a nice bookstore here. No fossils can be seen in this area. A short
nature trail begins at the visitor center. It is open daily 8:00 a.m. to
6:00 p.m., during the summer. Winter hours are 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
weekdays, closed on weekends and holidays. There is no entance fee.
Ranger Talks and
Walks are presented in the summer. Our ranger
talks and walks are a great way to see more of the park and have a fun
experience with an expert guide. A schedule of talks and walks is not
printed for distribution. Inquire at either visitor center to find out
what is going on that day. Rangers lead guided walks to explore the
park's geology, wildlife, ecosystem communities, and cultural sites.
Short talks about dinosaurs and paleontology are presented each day in
the Dinosaur Quarry between 10:00 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. Evening talks on a
wide variety of topics are presented at the Green River Campground
campfire circle each night, Wednesday through Saturday. An evening talk
is presented at Echo Park Campground every Friday and Saturday, followed
by a guided walk the next morning.
Nature Trails
are located throughout the park. The six self-guiding nature trails are
a mile or less in length and are easy walks. There are several other
longer trails in the park for those who want a little more challenge.
Overnight hiking trips within the monument require a free backcountry
permit, available at the Dinosaur Quarry and Headquarters visitor
centers, or from a field ranger.
Auto Tours
begin near the Dinosaur Quarry and Monument Headquarters Visitor Center.
The Tour of the Tilted Rocks self-guided auto tour begins near the
Quarry. Allow about 1½ to 2 hours for this 22-mile round trip. This
tour is a brief look at the monument's diversity, sights, and stories.
The Journey Through Time self-guided auto tour begins at Monument
Headquarters. Allow about 2 to 4 hours for this 62-mile round trip. This
tour will introduce you to the diversity of communities in the Dinosaur
ecosystem and the complex interactions between plants and animals and
their environment. Both tours are fun, interesting, and beautiful.
Picnic Areas
are located in Colorado at Headquarters Visitor Center parking area,
Plug Hat Butte, Canyon Overlook and Echo Park Overlook along the Harpers
Corner Road. In Utah picnic areas are located at Split Mountain
Campground and Josie Morris Cabin. Picnickers are welcome to use any
campground when space is available.
Roads
to the Dinosaur Quarry and nearby campgrounds are paved and open all
year. Harpers Corner Road is paved, but closes in the winter due to
snow. The Deerlodge Road is paved and is open all year, although it may
be snow packed in winter. The Diamond Mountain Road to Jones Hole is
paved and is open all year. Most other roads are unpaved and impassable
when wet. Most unpaved roads, when dry, can be driven with care in
passenger cars. It is best to inquire about road conditions before
driving on unpaved roads.
Activities
Hiking
Self Guiding Nature
Trails
Desert Voices Nature Trail: This trail
is close to the Dinosaur Quarry and is a particularly good trail to
visit after viewing the bones and exhibits at the quarry. The trail
begins in the Split Mountain area across from or west of the boat ramp.
Signs along the trail explain what you can experience as you walk
through this arid environment. A special feature of the trail is a
series of signs produced specifically for children by children. The
trail is about 1 1/2 miles long round trip and is moderately difficult.
The best times to walk the trail are in the morning or evening when it
is not so hot. The interpretive signs will introduce you to the threats
confronting arid environments in the West. We think you will find this
trail provokes thought and self evaluation of your lifestyle.
Sound
of Silence Route: The Sounds of Silence route is also
close to the Dinosaur Quarry and is about 3 miles long round trip. This
is not a "trail" in the traditional sense, but rather a route,
which is difficult to follow and is designed to challenge you as a
hiker. The purpose of the route is to help you learn to find your way
and properly hike in the desert. An added benefit is that you will
experience silence like you have probably never experienced it before.
Cold
Desert Trail: This trail is located at Monument
Headquarters Visitor Center along US 40, 2 miles east of Dinosaur,
Colorado. It is a 1/2 mile in length and is an easy walk. Many people
find the desert shrub community that stretches out for miles beyond US
Highway 40, to be a monotonous and lifeless landscape. That is not the
case and this trail tries to prove it. The trail will introduce you to
the variety of plants and animals that make the desert shrub community
their home. This is a great trail for the family and a good way to
prepare yourself for the drive up the Journey Through Time self guiding
auto tour along the Harpers Corner Road which begins at Headquarters.
Plug
Hat Trail: This is another short trail along the Harpers
Corner Road. It is 1/4 mile in length and an easy walk. Like the Cold
Desert Trail, this trail at Plug Hat is an introducation to the flora
and fauna of the pinion pine and juniper forest community. An added
bonus is the spectacular views of the surrounding landscape from the
trail. There are also additional signs and scenic views across the road
at the Plug Hat picnic area. The Plug Hat picnic area also has a short
trail that is accessible to those confined to a wheel chair and the pit
toilet is also fully accessable.
Harpers
Corner Trail: At the end of Harpers Corner Road is this 2
mile long round trip trail that is moderately difficult. If I had to
pick a "must hike trail", this would be it! The trail will
take you to the end of a point from which you will have an eagle's view
of dramatic geologic features and a breathtaking view of the canyons of
the Green and Yampa rivers. The best times to walk this trail are in the
early morning or evening when the light is especially dramatic for
artful photographs.
Gates
of Lodore Trail: At the end of the campground at Gates of
Lodore is a 1 1/2 mile round trip trail that is an easy walk. The trail
offers spectacular views of the river gorge and introduces some of the
plants and geology of the area. One question will boggle your mind,
"Why and how did this river cut through this mountain rather than
flow around it?" After walking the trail chat with the ranger at
Lodore and get recommendations about other sites to visit in Browns
Park. There is a lot to see in the north end of the park.
Hiking Trails
The trails listed in this section are marked and maintained hiking
trails that allow you to explore the beauty, solitude, flora, and fauna
that is Dinosaur National Monument.
Jones
Hole Trail and Ely Creek Trail: This may be the prettiest hiking
trail in the park. From the Dinosaur Quarry, drive 1 hour along the
Brush Creek Road and Diamond Mountain Road to the Jones Hole National
Fish Hatchery. The hatchery has parking, restrooms, and an information
kiosk for your convenience. The Jones Hole Trail is 8 miles long, round
trip, and will take you from the hatchery down to the Green River. It is
a moderately difficult walk if you go the distance; an easy walk if you
go a short distance. Half way down the trail is Ely Creek, 4 miles round
trip, a good compromise destination.
The Jones Hole Trail follows
the clear, spring-fed waters of Jones Hole Creek. In the summer when it
is warm, you can wade in the creek, but do so with care. The rocks are
covered with algae and are slick and sharp. Brown and rainbow trout make
their home in the creek, feeding on the abundant supply of aquatic
insects that graze upon the algae clinging to the rocks. I've seen
muscrat in the creek, attracted to the abundat aquatic vegetation and
mink hunting for trout. After the sun sets Yuma myotis and silver-haired
bats snatch aquatic insects that have hatched and are flitting about
looking for mates. Keep an eye out for mammal tracks left the night
before in the mud by striped skunk, racoon, ringtail, and mountain lion.
The life in Jones Hole is an intricate web of interdependence between
plants and animals.
If you fish the creek you
will need a Utah fishing license. State fishing regulations require the
use of flies and artificial lures only; bait is not allowed. Special
catch limits apply and you are responsible for knowing the regulations.
As you begin your hike, the
trail enters the riparian woods. Riparian is a name applied to the
community of plants and animals that make their home in the creek's
flood plain. It is a community characterized by high soil moisture (due
to its proximity to the creek), higher humidity under the tree canopy,
and occasional disturbance by flash floods. Boxelder trees form an
enclosed and cool canopy over the trail in the riparian zone. Music from
the creek and from the many birds in the canopy will serenade you as you
walk. Riparian communities are one of the rarer, but most productive
wildlife habitats in this arid landscape.
In a number of places the
trail rises out of the flood plain onto the open and warmer benches in
the canyon bottom. The canyon benches are above the creek and therefore,
have drier soils. This more arid environment supports bunch grasses,
mountain mahogany and squawbush shrubs, and juniper trees; good habitat
for mule deer and bighorn sheep. If you keep your eyes open you may see
them.
The open benches will give
you the opportunity to notice the rocks that form the canyon walls. Take
a close look at the rocks on one side of the canyon, then look at the
other side. Do the rocks look different? They should, you see, the
Island Park Fault runs along the base of the canyon wall on your left
(east wall). The left wall was pushed up more than 1,000 feet in
relationship to the right wall (west wall), long, long, ago. The rock
forming the canyon's left wall is the Madison Limestone, a Mississippian
Age rock (330-360 million years old), that is a sea deposit containing
coral and brachiopod (clam) fossils. The right wall of the canyon is
composed of two formations. The lower rock is the Morgan Formation, a
Pennsylvanian Age rock (320 million years old) and the upper
cream-colored rock is the Weber Sandstone, an upper Pennsylvanian Age
rock (300 million years old). The Morgan Formation was deposited in an
ocean and contains coral, brachiopod, crinoid, and bryzoan fossils. The
Weber Sandstone was a sand dune deposit. The Island Park Fault fractured
the rock along the fault zone weakening the rock which aided Jones Hole
Creek in cutting this canyon. The variety of rock found in close
proximity to one another here at Jones Hole and throughout Dinosaur
National Monument, weather into different types of soil, to which plants
are adapted. This increases the biological diversity of Jones Hole and
the monument.
A little beyond the bridge
is an archeological site, Deluge Shelter. Wayside signs explain some of
what we know about the prehistoric Indians that have lived beside the
creek for over 7,000 years. When you first see the Indian rock art,
resist the urge to touch it. Touching rock art abrades its surface and
leaves behind oils from your fingers which accelerate the erosion of
these 1,000 year old works of art.
When you reach the junction
with the Isalnd Park Trail at Ely Creek, approximately 1.8 miles from
the hatchery, you have several choices. You can continue hiking the
remaining 2.2 miles to the Green River, or you can walk up the Island
Park Trail about 1/4 mile to Ely Creek waterfall. This is a wonderful
spot, shaded by Douglas fir and birch trees, with background music of
cascading, splashing water. This is a great spot to cool off and take a
break.
From the waterfall you can
continue up the Island Park Trail another 1/3 mile to the fork in the
trail. The left fork continues on for 7 1/2 miles, up and out of Jones
Hole to the historic Ruple Ranch in Island Park. The right fork takes
you another 2-3 miles up into the box canyons of the Labyrinths. The
"trail" eventually peters out as you penetrate country far
less traveled. In the Labyrinths you are on your own; keep tabs on the
landscape as you go so you know how to get back.
As you continue down the
Jones Hole Trail a short distance you will cross Ely Creek and come to
the Ely Creek Campsite. This is the only designated backcountry campsite
in the monument. A free backcountry permit is required to stay overnight
at one of the two campsites. You must reserve one of these sites at the
Dinosaur Quarry Visitor Center. No fires are permitted. Camping is not
permitted elsewhere in Jones Hole Canyon or the Labryinths.
When you leave Ely Creek and
head toward the Green River you cross the Island Park Fault. The creek
continues to cut ever deeper into the Madison Limestone beyone this
point. Near the Green River you will walk past a rock outcrop that looks
strikingly different from the Madison Limestone. This is the red
sandstone of the older Lodore Formation, Cambrian Age rock (510-570
million years old). Trilobites crawled about the ancient Lodore sea
floor amongst their neighbors, brachiopods and marine worms in the mud.
The trail ends in the Jones
Hole Campground. This campground is for river running parties only.
Respect the privacy of river runners in their campsites as you approach
the river. Keep your eyes open for bighorn sheep. They often hang out in
this area beside the river.
You've earned a rest. At the
Green River you can loll about, soak your feet, lay in the shade of the
boxelder trees, and watch the river glide by. When you are rested you
can start back to your car, IF you can tear yourself away from this
beautiful, tranquil scene. When you walk this trail you enjoy an extra
special day.
Tent and RV Camping
Obtaining campsites in
Dinosaur National Monument is on a first-come, first-served basis. There
is no reservation service for camping in the monument. Most of the
campgrounds do not fill up, except for Labor Day and Memorial Day
weekends. Echo Park Campground can fill up on the weekends, but is
usually not crowded during weekdays.
The length of stay limit is
14 days.
Recreation vehicles in
excess of 35 feet in length cannot be accommodated in any of the
campgrounds. There are no hookups. Trailers and motor homes should not
be taken on the Echo Park and Rainbow Park roads due to steep dips and
sharp turns.
Fires may be built only in
the fireplaces provided. Keep your fire small, never leave it
unattended, even for a few minutes, and be sure it is out cold before
bedtime or departure.
Green River
Campground (5 miles east of Dinosaur Quarry) -
$12 per night, has 88 sites, handles tents and RVs, is well shaded,
usually has drinking water but does not for the 2000 summer season
because of a water line break. Some areas will be closed for water line
construction, water will not be available. No fees will be charged until
construction is complete. Has modern restrooms, tables and
fireplaces, firewood for sale, and ranger talks at the campground
campfire circle. It is open approximately April to October.
Split Mountain
Campground (4 miles east of Dinosaur Quarry)
in the summer is for group camping only, but is otherwise open all year.
The campground has group camping fees, 4 sites, can handle tents, is
shaded, has drinking water, modern restrooms, tables and fireplaces, and
firewood for sale. Call (435) 789-8277 to reserve a group campsite.
Rainbow Park
Campground (26 miles from Dinosaur Quarry on
unpaved road) - no fee, 2 sites, handles tents, no water, vault toilet,
tables and fireplaces, and is open all year. Road to campground is
impassable when wet.
Echo Park
Campground (38 miles north of Headquarters)
Newly renavated, $6.00/night, 17 camp sites, including 1 handicap
accessable , plus 4 walk-in sites and one group site. Water and vault
toilets, handles tents. Check with a ranger on present fire use policy.
Access is dependent upon weather, the last 13 miles of road are unpaved
and impassable when wet. RVs and trailers are not recommended.
Deerlodge Park
Campground (53 miles east of Headquarters)- no
fee, 8 sites, handles tents, is shaded, no drinking water, vault
toilets, tables and fireplaces, and is open all year.
Gates of Lodore
Campground (106 miles north of Headquarters) -
$5 per night, handles tents and RVs, has some shade, drinking water,
vault toilets, tables and fireplaces, and is open all year.
Group Camping
Group campsites are located in the Split
Mountain Campground only during the summer months (May through October).
You can reserve a campsite for your group by calling (435) 789-8277. The
Split Mountain Group Campground contains 4 sites. A maximum number of 20
people can camp in each site. The campground is situated by the Green
River with a spectacular view of the mouth of Split Mountain Gorge. The
campground is fairly well shaded and has drinking water, modern
restrooms, tables and fireplaces, and firewood for sale. The group
camping fee is $10 for a non-refundable reservation fee and $25 per
night.
Backcountry Camping
Dinosaur National Monument is not known as a
backpack and horse pack park. The reason for this is the monument’s
lack of a trail system. However, if you can read a map and are
comfortable camping in an arid environment, the backcountry
possibilities in the monument are endless. A knowledgeable ranger at one
of the visitor centers can help you plan a trip. You can also purchase a
USGS or Trails Illustrated topographic map of Dinosaur National
Monument.
Overnight backpack and horse
pack trips require a free backcountry use permit available at either
visitor center or a field ranger.
The Ely Creek Campground in
Jones Hole is the only designated backpack campground in the park. You
can make a reservation and obtain a backcountry permit for an Ely Creek
site at the Dinosaur Quarry visitor center. The campsite is located two
miles down Jones Hole Trail and has two sites. A maximum of 10 people
can stay in each site, fires are not permitted.
During the low-use river
season (second Saturday in September to the second Sunday in May)
backpackers can camp at accessible river camps along the Green and Yampa
rivers.
Fishing
Fishing opportunities are
available within the monument. The Green and Yampa rivers contain
catfish and pike. If you do fish, you need to know how to identify the
four endangered native fish that live in these rivers. They are
sometimes hooked by fishermen and must be immediately returned to the
river unharmed. Jones Hole Creek is clear and cool, a perfect habitat
for brown and rainbow trout. Special regulations apply in Jones Hole,
such as artificial flies and lures only. All fishermen must have a valid
state-fishing license and be familiar with the regulations.
Boat Trips
White
Water Boat Trips are maybe the best way to see the heart of Dinosaur.
Boaters experience the thrill of rapids, beautiful cliffs, bighorn
sheep, solitude, and nature, unvarnished and wild.
Mountain Biking
Mountain Biking is a sport
that is slowly growing in popularity at Dinosaur. There are no mountain
bike trails in the monument. Bikes can travel on the paved and unpaved
roads in the monument, but our roads are narrow and there are no
road-shoulder bike paths. Mountain bikes are not allowed on any hiking
trails or two-track backcountry roads. The best mountain bike routes in
the monument are as follows:
The Island Park Road is
12 - 17 miles long one way and ends at a primitive campground. It is
unpaved, but well maintained, and an easy to moderately strenuous
ride.
The Echo Park Road is 13
miles long one way and ends at the Echo Park Campground (camping
fee). It is unpaved, rough and steep, and a strenuous ride.
The Yampa Bench Road is
51 miles long in the monument and an additional 20 miles or so to US
40. There are no campgrounds or water along this route. The road is
unpaved, rough, steep in several places, and a very strenuous ride.
Good planning is necessary to do this trip.
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