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History
Human Prehistory
Human habitation at Hovenweep dates back over 10,000 years ago when
nomadic Paleoindians visited the Cajon Mesa to gather food and hunt game.
These people continued to use the mesa for centuries, following the
seasonal weather patterns. By about 900 A.D. these people started to
settle here year-round, planting and harvesting crops in the rich soil on
the mesa's top. At its prime in the late 1200's, the Hovenweep area was
home to over 2,500 people.
Ancestral Puebloans
The inhabitants of the Hovenweep area during the late 1200's, referred to
as the ancestral Puebloans (formerly Anasazi), excelled in architectural
and craft skills as well as farming. Hovenweep is most generally
associated with the Pueblo II/Pueblo III transition (A.D. 900-1300). The
majority of the standing prehistoric structures at the monument were
constructed in the early to mid-1200's. By evidence of masonry and
architecture, as well as the predominance of Mesa Verde pottery at all of
the Hovenweep villages, it is apparent that the people who built these
structures were part of the Montezuma Valley/Mesa Verde culture.
The buildings that visitors to Hovenweep
see today are the remnants of the settlements these people built during
the high point of their occupation of region. The structures here are
numerous and varied. Some are square, some D-shaped, some round, some
measuring nearly four stories tall. There are towers, kivas, pueblos, room
blocks, granaries, check dams, and farming terraces. The ancestral
Puebloan's masonry is as beautiful as it is complex, and many of the
structures are precariously built atop rock outcroppings, still standing
after almost 700 years.
Many theories have been offered as to the
use of the buildings at Hovenweep. The famous towers could have been used
as celestial observatories, defensive structures, storage facilities,
civil buildings, homes, or any combination of these. Archeologists have
found that most of the towers were associated with kivas (religious and
social structures), giving some evidence toward a ceremonial use. Around
the towers are piles of rubble that indicate that there were many more
structures in existence than are seen today, leaving archeologists to
ponder over the actual function of these towers.
While we do not know the uses of some
buildings, we do know that the people who built them were successful
farmers. They terraced their land into farmable plots, formed catch basins
to hold water run-off, and built check dams to retain the soil that would
normally wash off the cliff edges by erosion. Storage caches along the
canyon rims still exist and can be spotted by the discerning eye. These
caches would have held dried crops of corn, beans and squash for later
use. Some believe that stored crops would be plentiful enough to last
through anticipated dry years as well.
Masonry Styles
The
masonry found in the Hovenweep area is very distinctive and shows
considerable skill in construction techniques. Structures at other
locations in the region, even the cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde, rarely
exhibit such careful construction and attention to architectural detail.
In brief, the tower walls have the following characteristics:
- Wall stones are thick blocks taken from
sandstone containing calcium carbonate. One flat rectangular side
forms the visible wall face, while the other stones within the walls
are irregular.
- Wall faces were dimpled with a pecking
stone to resemble flatness.
- Coursing was incidental to the use of
rectangular faced stones.
- Mud mortar was sometimes used, with the
intent of closing voids between stones.
- Spalls were used to support stones in
place. Spalls were also used to fill in spaces between stones after
the walls were constructed.
Departure
By the end of the thirteenth century the people
of Hovenweep and the surrounding region (such as Mesa Verde and Kayenta)
packed up and left the area, presumably moving southward and joining with
the people of the Hopi and Zuni. Several theories have developed as to the
reasons for the ancestral Puebloan's departure. Some say they were forced
out by hostile neighbors. Others say a combination of overpopulation,
overuse of the land, and a 20 year drought beginning in the year 1276 made
the area uninhabitable. Most likely it was not just one factor but a
combination of many which caused the ancestral Puebloans to decide to
leave their elaborate homes. European
History
The first historic reports of the abandoned structures at Hovenweep were
made by W.D. Huntington, the leader of a Mormon expedition into southeast
Utah in 1854. The name "Hovenweep" is a Paiute/Ute word meaning
"deserted valley" which was adobted by pioneer photographer
William Henry Jackson in 1874. In 1917-18, J.W. Fewkes of the Smithsonian
Institution surveyed the area. Fewkes recommended the structures be
protected. On March 2, 1923, President Warren G. Harding proclaimed
Hovenweep a unit of the National Park System.
Places
Ranger
Station/Square Tower
The
ranger station contains limited exhibits and educational information for
visitors. There is a bookstore specializing in materials on the culture
and natural history of the area. A video is available for those not able
to take the walking tour of the sites. Picnic tables are available at the
Ranger Station Area. Due to the high cost of garbage removal, visitors are
required to pack out their own garbage. The Ranger Station is open from
8:00 a.m.- 4:30 p.m., seven days a week (except for winter holidays).
Square
Tower Group
The
most concentrated remains of buildings at Hovenweep are found at Square
Tower Group, spread along both sides of a Y-shaped canyon. Nearly thirty
kin kivas were once scattered along the slopes of this canyon between the
many stone masonry housing units, indicating that perhaps as many as 500
people once lived in this canyon. There are numerous named buildings at
Square Tower Group, some of which are mentioned below.
Hovenweep Castle is what
remains of a large pueblo situated on edge of the canyon rim. Even though
it is called a "castle," its use was most likely domestic. There
is very little evidence at Hovenweep to support the theory that these
structures were built purely for defensive purposes.
Square Tower, for which the
group is named, is a three story high tower that sits upon a sandstone
rock below Hovenweep Castle. Its location near the spring at the head of
the canyon gives rise to speculation that it is a ceremonial structure.
Hovenweep House is a
horseshoe-shaped building near the remains of check dam on the canyon rim
above the spring. Dams were typically built above springs in order to hold
water and allow it to slowly percolate down through the sandstone until it
reached an impervious layer of shale, from which it flowed into the canyon
as a spring.
Tower Point, at the center of
the Y-shape of the canyon, holds a single round tower that commands a view
of the entire area. And while it appears to be a lone tower, the canyon
below was once filled with dwellings, and it is likely that other
buildings ran right up to it just as at Hovenweep Castle.
Across from Tower Point is
Eroded Boulder House, a dwelling built within a large boulder. Above that,
on the canyon rim, are the Twin Towers, a pair of two-story apartment-type
buildings containing sixteen rooms.
Across and down the canyon are
Stronghold House (at left) and Stronghold Tower, structures that were once
connected by a log that bridged a crevice in the canyon. Beyond Stronghold
House is Unit-Type House, a dwelling similar to the unit pueblos of Mesa
Verde (blocks of rooms with a southern kiva and a trash dump south of
that). Openings in the east wall of Unit-Type House are arranged to allow
a determination of the solstices, equinoxes, and perhaps even moon cycles.
Holly Group
The
Holly Group was once the home to an estimated 150 or more people. This
group contains five named buildings: Tilted Tower, Holly Tower, Curved
Wall House, Great House, and Isolated Boulder House. The most spectacular
of these is Holly tower, a graceful two-story structure that was
skillfully built on a tall, narrow boulder. This tower has a single
entrance, reachable only by hand and toe holds carved into the boulder,
and represents one of the finest examples of Montezuma Valley
architecture.
Also at Holly is the most dramatic example
of how these people determined the solstice and equinox by tracking the
sun's position. Tucked under a rock ledge are markers consisting of a
complete spiral, a partial spiral, and a complete three-ring concentric
circle. Daggers of light appear on these petroglyphs as the sun rises,
aligning on the three designs to mark the summer solstice and the fall and
spring equinoxes. As farmers, it was vital to know when it was time to
plant crops, and astronomical devices such as this are found at nearly all
the sites, usually in the form of holes in the eastern walls of certain
structures.
Horseshoe
Horseshoe
Ruin was a small village housing only 50 to 60 people. There was a dam on
the canyon rim creating a reservoir, groups of unit houses in the canyon,
and ceremonial structures to the east and west of the main pueblo. An
isolated tower stands on the sandstone point to the west of the main
dwellings, overlooking the canyons to the south as if watching for danger,
but its function was probably ceremonial. The most significant building at
this site is Horseshoe House itself, a D-shaped structure with a curved
wall on one side, subdivided into compartments in the general pattern of
the Sun Temple at Mesa Verde. Beneath the
canyon rim below Horseshoe House is a small cliff dwelling and kiva, and
in the grotto that holds the spring are many well preserved ancient hand
prints.
Hackberry Group
The Hackberry site was a medium-sized village
probably as large as Cliff Palace at Mesa Verde, having around 300 to 350
inhabitants. It consists of a cluster of room blocks around a spring at
the head of a canyon, similar to many of the Hovenweep groups. One unique
feature here at Hackberry is the amount of vegetation due to its very
productive spring. Water might have been available here when other springs
in the area had slowed to a trickle. The large hackberry trees in this
canyon (giving the site its name) provide a distinct contrast to the
sagebrush-juniper plant zone on the mesa top just a few yards away. It is
also evident that the people here terraced the slopes inside the canyon
for planting small plots of crops. With the abundant water, and shelter
from the elements, crops raised on these terraces could have extended the
growing season later in the fall and earlier in the spring than crops
farmed on the mesa top.
Cutthroat
Group
Cutthroat
was a Pueblo III village of substantial size, perhaps having a population
over 200, built on an S-shaped stream that was dammed to provide a small
reservoir between the two sections of the village. Cutthroat differs from
the other site groups in that it is built on a stream bed rather than
clustered around a canyon head spring. Another interesting feature of
several of the towers at Cutthroat is their lack of visible entrances.
Many of these entrances could have been below ground, or the towers could
have been accessed from the top by ladders. This site sits at the highest
elevation of all the Hovenweep group, receiving higher annual
precipitation, cooler temperatures, and having deeper soils than the other
sites.
Cajon
Group
The
Cajon group consists of the ruins of a small village constructed in the
same configuration as Hackberry, Horseshoe, and Holly. The surviving
structures are situated about the head of a small canyon, and the rubble
of other room blocks at the site indicate that about 80 to 100 people was
lived here. Under the ledge of one canyon wall are small cliff dwellings
and pictographs painted in Mesa Verde pottery style, and the remains of a
good-sized earthen dam built in the wash above the spring can still be
seen today. On the western slope of the canyon
stands an exotic circular tower with its walls following the undulations
of three large boulders. The builders of this tower carefully fitted their
masonry stones to the rocks to produce a round building plan on a
remarkably uneven surface. It is a prime example of the skill and
determination of the architects and masons of Hovenweep. Activities
Camping
There is a small campground near the ranger
station which is open seasonally on a first-come, first-served basis. The
sites are designed for tent camping, though a few sites will accommodate
RV's 25 feet or less in length. The fee is $10.00 per night. Flush toilets
and running water are available. Backpacking is not permitted within
Hovenweep.
Hiking
The trail system at Hovenweep is primitive and
lightly maintained. To protect cultural resources,
hiking is limited to established trails only. Hiking trails are
available at each of the cultural sites and walking tours are possible
with self-guiding trail guides. Trails range in length from a 1/2 mile
loop to an 8 mile route that connects two of the cultural site groups.Two
trails originate at the Ranger Station and offer visitors the opportunity
to view nearby archeological sites: one is a two mile trail that takes
about 1.5 hours and has an elevation change of 150 feet; the second trail
is shorter and easier.
Photography Hovenweep
is a paradise for photographers. The rich colors of the sandstone glow in
the crisp sunlight against a sky so blue it seems almost unreal. Abandoned
structures cling to the canyon rims, offering themselves for close-ups or
cross-canyon shots that will reward even the most amateur picture-taker.
And the night sky at Hovenweep is a treasure all its own, with air so
clear and free of light-pollution that the Milky Way stretches from
horizon to horizon like a jeweled rainbow. Ranger
Station The ranger
station contains limited exhibits and educational information for
visitors. There is a bookstore specializing in materials on the culture
and natural history of the area. A video is available for those not able
to take the walking tour of the sites. Picnic tables are available at the
Ranger Station Area. Due to the high cost of garbage removal, visitors are
required to pack out their own garbage. Ranger-led
Programs Guided
hikes and talks are lead by the interpretive staff peridoically spring
through fall. Inquire at the ranger station for details and schedules.
Interpretive programs can be arranged in advance by contacting the Ranger
Station.
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